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HOW TO COLOR YOUR OWN HAIR!
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"Learn More About Coloring Your Hair!" By Maximilian Cannon
Maximilian has been a licensed Cosmetologist for almost 20 years, including ownership of quality salons across the U.S. for over 15 years. He has worked as a platform artist and educator for several haircare companies, and won the prestigious Paul Mitchell Medal of Honor. Maximilian used these experiences to help him formulate & produce the Oasis Haircare line, as well as, the Fat LIp Makeup Company, which he promotes online at the salon website: http://Maximum-Beauty.com
Hair color is a formula of dyes and pigments to stain the hair, ammonia to prepare the hair to take the color, and peroxide to lighten your natural pigment. Often the process will include a neutralizer to stop the process and a conditioner to help soften and strengthen your hair.
Hair is made up of the outer cuticle layer and the inner cortex layer. The cortex contains the hair's protein and provides color, texture, and elasticity. The ammonia in hair dye swells the hair and raises the cuticle, then the peroxide bleaches the natural pigment and reacts with the dye to actually color the hair.
Why color your hair?
- Restore gray hair to a natural color
- Change natural color
- Restore natural color
- Create fashion effects
- Enhance or create highlights
Hair color is measured from light to dark, based on a level system:
Level 10: lightest blonde
Level 9: very light blonde
Level 8: light blonde
Level 7: medium blonde
Level 6: dark blonde
Level 5: lightest brown
Level 4: light brown
Level 3: medium brown
Level 2: dark brown
Level 1: black
Hair goes through seven stages of lightening: black to dark-brown, to brown, to red, to red-gold, to yellow, to pale yellow. Changing your hair more than two shades will damage it and look unnatural, whether you do it at home or have it done in a salon. Two-step coloring (also known as double processing) is for radical changes in your hair color. Be prepared for an unnatural look and dry, brittle hair, even when it's done professionally. Most experts recommend any radical change of color be done professionally.
Color Me Beautiful
Your first step is to choose the type of coloring product you want to use, depending on how long you want your color to last.
There are four basic categories of hair color products:
- Temporary: available in shampoos, conditioners, mousses, paint, crayons, sprays, and sticks. The color of the dye is the color that it will be on your hair. These are considered a fun, fashionable way to color your hair without making any commitment to the change; they stay on until the first shampoo.
- Semi-permanent: formulated to stay on the hair for six to 12 washings, generally used to cover up to 20% gray or to lighten or darken hair. These coat and stain hair, but do not penetrate the cuticle.
- Mid/intermediate (also called longer-lasting semi-permanent, shorter-lasting permanent, or in-between color): use ammonia to swell the hair shaft and hydrogen peroxide for penetration and oxidation, so more dye gets into the hair and stays there. Can cover 25% to 50% gray, these dyes remain in the hair, then fade and grow out, but do not wash out. They are best used to match gray to your natural color, highlight or tint, or lengthen the time between more permanent coloring.
- Permanent: contain hydrogen peroxide up to 30% by volume, which means the hair is exposed to strong chemical action. Color is established inside the hair shaft and although it may fade, it doesn't go away until it grows out or is cut away.
Men's hair color products: generally a mid/intermediate formula. Beware products with lead acetate, which is a known carcinogen. Experts recommend finding a good "women's" product instead.
- Vegetable dyes (henna): just as hard to use and just as unpredictable as permanent chemical dyes.
Take It Step By Step
Follow all directions carefully.
- Do a strand test before coloring your hair. It's the only way to be sure how it will turn out. A good trick: collect a few days' worth of hair from your hairbrush, then bond one end with tape and test it.
- It's worth testing for allergic reaction prior to using a coloring product. Dab a little color behind your ears or on the inside of your forearm and wait 48 hours to see if your skin breaks out.
- Do roots first, then the length.
If your hair is damaged, porous, or chemically treated, your hair will take color faster; if it's healthy or thicker than normal, it will take more time to absorb color.
- Do not put color on previously treated hair (colored, permed, relaxed, or damaged by chlorine or sunlight).
- Do not use heavy conditioners or styling products a couple of days prior to coloring.
The gloves that come with home use products are often fragile. It's worth investing in a pair of good rubber or disposable latex gloves.
Appropriate Types
Lightener
Bleaches your natural hair color to a light blond color.
Temporary dye
Changes your hair color temporarily until you shampoo. Can be used for decorative effects or highlights in specific areas of your hair.
Semi-permanent dye
Changes your hair color temporarily, for six to 12 washings. Can be used to enhance or subtly change your hair color or cover gray.
Mid/intermediate dye
Changes your hair color permanently until the hair grows out or is cut off. Can be used to highlight your hair, change your hair color a few shades, or cover gray.
Permanent dye
Changes your hair color permanently until the hair grows out or is cut off. Can be used to change your hair color drastically or cover gray.
Appropriate Uses
Temporary coloring
Temporary dyes are big molecules that do not penetrate the cuticle very well. They coat the outside of the cuticle to give it a different shade of color and cannot give hair a lighter color. Since temporary dyes only coat the outside of your hair, they shampoo out.
Semi-permanent coloring
Semi-permanent dyes are medium-sized particles and can partially penetrate the hair shaft. They last between three to five weeks. They cause the hair cuticle to swell and allow for better penetration of color. They cannot lighten hair and are slowly removed by shampooing.
Permanent coloring
Permanent dyes are the smallest sized particles for maximum penetration of the hair shaft. They are combined in a basic solution to open up the cuticle and allow the dyes to be fully absorbed. When the dye solution is washed out, the hair's pH returns to normal and the cuticle contracts, trapping the dye.
Dye removers
Dye removers are used to remove color from dyed hair. They are often used to try to fix mistakes in coloring or to change from one dye color to the next.
Lightening
Lightening hair requires the opening of the cuticle and the destruction of melanin. Melanin is the pigment in your hair and skin that gives it color.
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