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Walleye Tactics - Bottom Bouncing
Before getting into the explanations and methods used for bottom bouncing I'd like to bring up a few points to drive home the value of using the technique and why you should include it in your arsenal of walleye tactics.
My first exposure to the term "Bottom Bouncing" was in an article from the In fisherman magazine back in the late eighties. The writer was explaining this hot new innovation that tournament fishermen were using in the Dakotas and other western States. What an eyecatcher - pun intended - it was one of those "why didn't I think of that" deals. Dan Gapen Sr. a few years earlier had developed a weight syatem called the Bait Walker, a wire form much similar to a spinnerbait wire with a chunk of lead on the bottom arm. These proved to be very effective for fishing bottom oriented fish like Lake Trout & Walleye. They got your attached bait to the bottom in a controlled fashion and were much more versatile than a three way rig. I bet you've all seen them in a tackle shop somewhere.
This new bottom bouncing variation though took the whole presentation method to a much higher level. By using a longer wire on the leg side of the wire form it was possible to mold the lead in the middle of the wire and the increased sensitivity to bottom structure the wire extension provided, was phenominal. This new inovative design was available in a variety of sizes that would suit a number of different fishing situations.
A Personal Observation:
I'm going to venture a personal observation before I move on to the technique side of bottom bouncing.
It is my belief that Walleye target bait that is above them in the strike zone. I think the shape of their head especially the eye sockets prevents visible acuity af approx. 80 degrees below them. This argument probably is brought home by the number of Walleye that eat a jig on the fall. With this contention I place a lot of confidence in attracting a bite from bottom oriented fish when the presentation is with a bouncer and it also sets the stage for understanding the why about doing things right.
How To:
The first step in rigging for bottom bouncing is to select a 6 - 6 1/2' rod that has a fast tip and good backbone from the center to the handle. A palm sized baitcast reel with a flipping switch makes a comfortable winch for an all day session of trolling. My personal preference for line is 20/8 # Fireline.
Putting It All Together:
The simple procedure for determining what size bouncer to use is directly related to speed and depth. At regular trolling speeds the first 10' can be fished with a 1 oz. bouncer and just adjust for more depth by increasing the weight by 1 oz./10', you can cover the more productive zones with a selection 0f 1 - 3 oz. bouncers. Higher speeds can completely change the equation though, so apply a little guidance with this rule - keep your line angle from rod tip to water surface at 45 degrees. High speed (power) trolling is used out west quite often - sand and mud bottom reservoirs lend themselves very well to the high speed pursuit of walleye. It is not uncommon to watch these guys fish with 8 - 12 oz. of weight and use speeds as high as 5 miles an hour.
In this general area of Ontario and Quebec, slow speed presentations are much more in vogue. The geological makeup of the land mass with all its shield rock extending into the water systems makes for a great obstacle course when it comes to trolling a straight line at speed, in fact it usually dictates an as slow as you can go approach. Trolling speeds that work for me around here would vary from 3/4 - 2 MPH.
Now that we have the selection process settled, it's time to rig up. If you are using Fireline, no let me rephrase this, regardless of the main line you choose use a Palomar knot to the bouncer. Of all the knots that are in use the Palomar provides the most security against knot breakage or slip.
Getting Started:
Now comes the fun part, actually getting on the water and putting this method through its paces. I'll begin with this bit of advice - those that have the right fishing boat and know how to back troll with it will have a huge advantage. Back trolling is an efficient and very controlled type of boat operation, it allows you to precisely work a contour line with all the ins and outs of the structure covered. You can vary speed and steering direction to suit exactly what is happening on your sonar screen. I don't mean to say that the folks with a windshield or console boat can't get results, I'm just saying tiller control has many advantages. A small kicker motor or electric will allow you to fish in the same way a tiller can, although some hull designs may be a little more difficult to finesse. The ideal hull is a deep vee that tracks the water effectively.
Enough of this dry stuff, let's get this show on the road.
Step 1 - Discovering the feel of a bouncer. Get out on the river or lake and find an edge that follows a 20' or so contour line. Tie on a 2 oz. bouncer, remember to use a Palomar knot. Don't be concerned about using it with spinner rig or some other type of bait for the moment, this excercise is just designed to let you know what a bouncer does when it is properly contacting the bottom. Hit the flipping switch on your reel and with your thumb on the spool, slowly release line until the bouncer touches bottom. You'll know by the thump you will feel in the rod. Now put your boat in gear, preferably in reverse (hope you have the right rig or setup). You'll notice the line to the bouncer will take on an immediate angle. Let a bit more line out until you feel the bottom again. Troll for a few hundred feet or so and occasionally raise and lower your rod tip. Do you feel the bouncer make contact with the bottom? No; then let out a bit more line until you do. When you're sure you have contact just continue to work around the area abit and get used to the signals the bouncer is transmitting through the rod. A good solid return thump indicates rock, a lesser thump is suggesting sand or gravel and a mushy feeling indicates mud. The area you are experimenting in may not hold all these bottom types so just concentrate on the current situation.
This is the single best piece of advice I can relate to this subject, you're "bouncing" bottom not dragging it. The whole purpose of this exercise is to get a feel for the bouncer being in proximity of the bottom, not directly in contact with it. The ideal distance is about 6 - 9 inches off bottom. Pull your line back and let it fall forward again until you get comfortable that you're doing it right.
Did you hang the bouncer on bottom a few times, get stuck and have to yank it out of a crevice in the rocks? Frustrating EH ! The easiest way to get out of a snag is to reverse direction completely, take a reverse angle on the line and most often the bouncer will slip right out of the hangup.
Step 2 - Lets go fishing. Are you in an area that is likely to hold fish? If so, just tie on one of those store bought rigs (worm Harness) you picked up just for this occasion. Actually if you have the right type of bouncer there will be a snap swivel on the business end and all you have to do is open the snap and slip the looped end of the harness on. Bait up with a crawler (on a two hook harness just pinch the nose of the crawler on the hook closest to the spinner, let the worm stretch out and put the second hook through the worms body in the area of its collar) make sure the worm is lying straight. If you're using minnows then nose hook it under the jaw and up through the head, let the second hook trail. Let out line until the bouncer makes contact with the bottom and follow the steps as previously explained. Hey isn't it great to be finally fishing!
There are a few elements that will tie this whole exercise into a successful method of fishing a bouncer right. Be precise in your efforts to stay in contact with the bottom, watch your boat speed and keep an eye on your sonar unit. It won't take very long for all the steps to come together. Remember to keep your line at a 45 degree angle MAX, any more than that and I'll bet you're dragging bottom.
There are many variables that will come into play as you become more proficient - precision bouncing, using bouncers in conjunction with planer boards, styles of bouncers (yes there are a few different types that fit specialized presentations), harnesses and all the hook options, blade styles, bouncing crank baits and a couple of other adaptations that will appeal to you.
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