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Walleye – Beads & Blades
Improving The Percentages
Much has been written about Walleye and the bait colors that attract them. Blend that information with all the other variables such as water clarity, current flow, light penetration (time of day), scent, vibration (noise) and everything else that comes into play. Is it any wonder that trying to decide what is the hot bait going to be for today an Einstein decision.
To help narrow the search for the right combinations down to a manageable few and recognizing that spinners are the high percentage bait, the single most important choice is to determine the harness colors. In-Fisherman magazine produced a very well researched and tested article a number of years ago that pointed out just what the best bait colors should be under ideal conditions. The article explained the rod and cone make-up of the walleye eye and their ability to distinguish colors. Their eyes lack yellow and blue cells which creates a color blindness situation and limits their vision to a range of reds or greens. Now if we accept the theory that the spectrum of color vision is affected by depth and start at red, orange, yellow, green, blue, etc. The question becomes what will they see as you progressively fish deeper water. Red is visible to a depth of about 15' in clear water and blue is identifiable in very deep situations as long as there is light penetration.
In my experience the most important element of good harness design is the color of the beads, how they are arranged and what blade color complements that basic choice. This single factor is the most important when you are trying to get a walleye to eat your bait.
I make this argument for a special reason, the bead color remains constant while trolling but the blade becomes a blur of color. I call it the HALO effect.
If our choice is to create high percentage opportunities for our baits to encourage walleye to bite then isn't it logical to use the colors that fit the middle of the visible spectrum -orange/yellow/green and isn't it amazing that these color choices represent perch colors in their natural element. Perch are the one constant as far as forage in a walleye fishery and their range of use of the water column also duplicates the highest percentage for walleye activity.
I like to use the following perch patterns – chartreuse beads/orange or green blades – salmon red beads/chartreuse blades – chartreuse beads/orange-chartreuse striped blades.
Now that we have an optimum pattern set let's take a look at variables. Walleye will range from just under the surface to 50 and 60' deep sometimes. Depending on the forage base, whether it's perch, shiners, smelt, whitefish (ciscos) or a number of other food fish for this all-seeing predator, colors play a roll.
If you can accept the fact that the beads are the most important component of the harness you can now limit your basic bead color choices – smelt = blue/green, common shiners = black/white, white fish (ciscos) = black/silver. Blades in green or blue to finish the smelt emulation and black, white or purple for shiners and whitefish (ciscos). These are the basics and certainly will cover most of your fishing challenges.
Next up are the special options and these are my blade color choices – shallow (less than 5') = red, 6 –15' = orange, 16 –25' = green, chartreuse or blue, 26 – 40' = white and 41'+ = black or purple. When fishing deeper than 20' I like blades that are painted on top and nickel/chrome under, the odd flash seems to trigger bites when you pump your rod. For those rare occasions when brass, gold or copper is the undertone required, I'll have some pink blades handy. In fact there is one body of water I fish for deep walleye and pink over copper will out produce any other combo by a substantial margin.
If you are in the habit of tying your harnesses with quick-change clevises it makes experimenting all that much easier when you encounter those finicky bite days. All of the above combinations are set for clear water conditions, as the water becomes more turbid just adjust the depth range upwards.
Early in the season I like to start out with smaller blades, sizes 2 – 3 ½, as the water warms and the forage base matures I'll move up to sizes 4 and 5. In those really dirty water or mud-line situations sometimes your best choice will be a size 7 blade and I find hammered silver to be the best choice.
Speed will also dictate my selection of blade, around 1 MPH, Colorado is my choice, 1 – 2 MPH = Indiana and over 2 MPH the selection then are Willows. There are quite a few varieties of blades available today other than those already mentioned and there are times when they can be deadly. Remember that this short story is based on high percentage baits, that doesn't mean you shouldn't experiment on your own.. These combinations are just what I have discovered work well for me and the waters I fish on.
The one thing I would recommend any of you to try, is to snorkel behind a harness and look at what the fish sees. Just go to a beach and have a buddy cast and retrieve a spinner harness by you.. I know the observations will reveal some basic truths about spinners and the validity of the choices I have made to improve my catch ratio and hopefully do the same for you.
McQ
http://groups.msn.com/McQonFishing
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