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The Peppercorn: History, Types and Uses
A brief discussion of the value and history of the black, white, red and green peppercorn, as well as their uses.
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Black pepper is such a common household item these days that it may be hard to believe it was once valued as cash in many societies. For example, when the king of the Visigoths put forth his demands for release of the city of Rome in 408 A.D., three thousand pounds of pepper were on his ransom note. While we tend not to give it a second thought when using it, the vast majority of savory recipes include pepper as a seasoning, with pepper ranked the third most added ingredient to recipes, only topped by water and salt.
Peppercorn history
Peppercorns are the seed berries of the Piper nigrum vine (piper being Latin for plant, and nigrum meaning black) originating on the Malabar coast of India.
Peppercorns are not only the oldest, but also the most widely used spice. Discovered around 4,000 years ago, it was being cultivated for trade as long ago as 1000 B.C.
During the Middle Ages, peppercorns were worth their weight in gold, and it was common for the wealthy aristocracy to keep large deposits of peppercorns as collateral. The term 'peppercorn rent' is often used to denote a small sum of money, but in medieval times, a pound of pepper really was the equivalent of a pound of gold or as much as three weeks' labor for trade purposes. Additionally, peppercorns were accepted as cash payment for rents and debts. Many of the original exploration voyages to the Far East were initiated in search of valuable spices such as pepper, and pepper was considered one of the five essential luxuries upon which foreign trade with the Roman Empire was based.
Because of its great value, dishonest suppliers would often mix in various less-desirable additives to increase the weight of their offering; including mustard husks, juniper berries, ground charcoal, and even floor sweepings! However, in 1875 the British Sale of Food and Drugs Law imposed restrictions against the selling of adulterated pepper.
Today, pepper, known as the King of Spices or the Master Spice, still accounts for one-fourth of the world's spice trade. The people of Tunisia lead in pepper consumption with half a pound per person per year, whereas North Americans consume about one-quarter pound per person per year.
Beyond its use as a culinary ingredient, the peppercorn also gained fame for its effectiveness as a digestive stimulant and expectorant. Its hot and pungent flavor causes the membranes inside the nose and throat to exude a lubricating secretion, helpful to those in respiratory distress as an aid to loosen and expectorate offending phlegm and mucus. Pepper was also used as an external ointment to relieve skin afflictions and hives.
In the garden, black pepper is extremely effective as a deterrent to insects. A solution of one-half teaspoon of freshly ground pepper to one quart of warm water sprayed on plants can be toxic to ants, potato bugs, silverfish, and even roaches and moths. A sprinkling of ground pepper will also discourage insects from creating and following their paths in non-garden areas.
Peppercorn varieties
You may be surprised to learn that black, white, and green peppercorns are all from the same plant, and are the same seed in various stages of development and processing. The berries grow on spikes, with fifty to sixty berries per spike
The active ingredient in pepper is piperine, of which a mere twenty parts per million can be detected.
Black Peppercorns: You may think that these are the mature fruit of the plant, but while they are full size, they are not quite ripe. Once picked, they are allowed to dry in the sun where enzymes in the berries cause the skin to turn black. This variety of the peppercorn is the strongest in flavor and most popular in most kitchens.
White Peppercorns: These are actually the mature berries which ripen to a red color before being picked. After harvesting, they are soaked and rubbed free of the outer skin down to the smooth white under-layer, then dried and bleached by the sun. Slightly milder than black pepper, white peppercorns tend to be used in sauces and other dishes where the black pepper flakes would detract from the finished product.
Green Peppercorns: This is the unripe berry, picked while green and usually pickled in vinegar or brine, but you can also find them freeze-dried and dehydrated. Green peppercorns are actually picked at the same stage of ripeness as black peppercorns, but are not allowed to dry. Their flavor and spiciness is less concentrated than black peppercorns, and they are the least pungent of the peppercorns.
Red Peppercorns: This is the mature version of the peppercorn without the hull removed. Red peppercorns are extremely difficult to find.
Pink Peppercorns: In spite of its name, these are unrelated to the black peppercorn. They come from the Baies Rose plant (Euonymus phellomanus), imported from Madagascar and as a result, tend to be quite expensive. They are pungent and slightly sweet, but not nearly as flavorful as the real thing. These berries were once banned by the Food and Drug Administration as a foodstuff, but are now considered safe for consumption. This seed is not to be confused with the Brazilian pepper tree.
Pink Berries: Also often called pink peppercorns, this berry is also unrelated to the black peppercorn. It is the seed of Schinus terebinthifolius, also known as Brazilian pepper tree, Christmas berry, and Florida Holly, and is considered a scourge in Florida. The flavor is hardly spicy hot, and more of a sweet menthol and resinous nature. This berry causes allergic reactions in some individuals, particularly children, and can be toxic in large quantities. Not recommended.
Pepper selection and storage
Pepper is available ground, coarsely-ground, cracked and as whole peppercorns. The whole peppercorns are the best choice as they hold their freshness, flavor, and essential oils longer. Ground pepper deteriorates with time and can take on a bitter flavor. Freshly ground pepper right from the grinder is the best option for full flavor benefit.
Whole peppercorns can be stored in a sealed container in a cool, dry place up to one year, with some sources claiming properly stored and sealed peppercorns can still be viable up to three years. Ground pepper begins to lose flavor after about four months, so if you don't use a lot of pepper, definitely avoid those huge cans. Brined peppercorns need to be refrigerated after opening and used within a month. Water-packed peppercorns have the shortest shelf life after opening so they should be refrigerated and used within one week.
Cooking with peppercorns
In standard recipes, avoid adding ground pepper until the end of the cooking process so its flavor does not get muted. When cooking a recipe using large amounts of pepper over high heat, be aware that any smoke from the peppered food can cause irritation, so be sure you have proper ventilation. If you are cooking a dish that is light in color, specks of black pepper may detract visually from your end product, thus the call for white pepper. White and black pepper can be used interchangeably. The French term au poivre, such as in steak au poivre, indicates a dish made with large quantities of pepper.
Put a few whole peppercorns in the peppershaker on your table to not only add flavor to the ground pepper, but to also help keep it free flowing. If you do not own a peppermill to grind your own peppercorns you owe it to yourself to get one - the difference in flavor is phenomenal. Peppermills range in price from less than $5 and up, depending on how fancy your tastes are. However, with pepper mills, you will get what you pay for. Look for all metal or ceramic mechanisms because plastic mechanisms will wear down and become ineffective at grinding in a far shorter time than with the others. We are big fans of the Peugeot line of mills – a little pricey, but they will last a lifetime.
At Caroline’s, we make sure to use nothing but the finest of ingredients, which is why we exclusively use the Tellicherry black peppercorn in our rubs and seasonings, known worldwide as the finest member of the peppercorn family.
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