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No paint holds firmer than the bottom coat
The top layer of paint is usually held responsible for peeling, when in reality it is the first layer that no longer has sufficient adhesion. Paint ages, and over time a thick layer of coats builds up on the surface, which reduces adhesion.
By removing the paint completely, painting can begin again from scratch using a deep-penetrating primer and undercoat that offer good adhesion. As well as higher quality, the end result is more attractive as wooden details are more clearly visible.
The Speedheater MethodTM is based on paint removal using infrared technology. IR heat softens paint quickly and efficiently, making it easy to scrape off. The Speedheater IR Paint Remover is a labour-saving device for use in re-painting exterior and interior surfaces. The tool is ideal for window renovation as it softens paint and putty at the same time.
Using Speedheater for renovations is a cost-effective, environmentally friendly method for people who care about their home. The Speedheater MethodTM is also kind to wood and is recommended by the National Heritage Boards in Sweden, Norway and Finland.
Paint Removal - Why must paint be removed?
From a maintenance perspective, removing old paint is particularly important. If a paint layer is too thick the paint will crack and re-painting will only provide temporary protection before the paint cracks and flakes again.
In some countries, all paint containing lead has to be removed by law.
Removing paint completely affords the opportunity to re-paint from scratch using a deep-penetrating primer and undercoat that provide excellent adhesion for the paint layers to follow.
If the painting work is carried out correctly, you can have a problem-free facade for at least 30-40 years that requires only standard maintenance.
As well as higher quality due to the aspects described above, the end result is perceived as more attractive as wooden details are more clearly visible.
Paint Removal - When should paint be removed?
Needs analysis
Re-painting a house takes time and is quite a costly business.
Therefore, there is not much point in compromising on the initial preparation and primer stages, only to have to re-do the whole job a few years later.
Thinking long-term and assessing what preparation work is required is a good idea that pays off in the long run.
Experienced painters say that around 80 per cent of the effort should be invested in the preparation phase. However, this is usually also the most boring and strenuous aspect of the job, a phase you would probably rather skip altogether. Not only are you keen to get on with the actual painting, but it's also difficult to make a relevant assessment of the particular needs of a given building.
Any top coat of paint hides the exploits of previous generations, which is why each individual house calls for its own unique evaluation.
In simplified terms, preparation work can be said to depend on various conditions:
If the paint has only faded and is not flaking or peeling, it is enough simply to wash the facade with a paint cleaner to remove dirt and spores.
If the paint is flaking but is still adhering to the surface, you can usually just scrape the facade to remove any paint that is no longer sticking, while the paint that is sticking can be left alone. However, bear in mind that in most cases this paint will also start peeling a few years after painting over it.
If your needs analysis reveals that it is no longer worth applying new paint to old layers, it's better to begin by removing all the old paint and starting again from scratch.
Here are some examples of when paint should be removed:
The bottom paint layers have aged so that their elastic and adhesive properties have deteriorated.
Every time the facade is painted just adds more and more layers, and eventually the bottom layer will not be able to support any more.
Generally, a house can be painted around 5-6 times. Therefore, if a house is say 50-60 years old it may be time to consider very carefully exactly what needs doing.
Incorrect preparation, for example latex or acrylic painted directly on the wood without an oil primer. Alternatively, the facade may have too much oil in it, which in turn results in poor adhesion.
Paint mixes that do not harmonise with each other, e.g. film-forming paints on top of whitewash or vice versa. Similar problems may occur with strong modern paints applied on top of old linseed oil paints.
Inadequate preparation of paint surfaces may result in the paint having poor adhesion, resulting in flaking or peeling between the layers that do not have sufficient adhesion to support new paint.
Blister formation on the painted surface, perhaps as a result of moisture or linseed oil blisters.
The paint layers have become too thick, too hard and riddled with penetrative cracks.
he paint layer shows a hairline crack pattern that may run horizontally, vertically or in a diamond pattern.
From a purely cosmetic perspective, detailed trim work and mouldings can be painted so thickly that their forms become unclear or disappear completely.
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